Friday, 19 April 2013

Museo Soumaya

The Soumaya had been somewhere I wanted to visit from my last trip to Mexico City.

The silver tiled building in Polanco is beautiful, although it would probably look more dramatic if there weren't two shopping centres flanking its two sides. Built my Carlos Slim, the richest man in the world as a tribute to his wife, Soumaya, who passed away in 1999.


Inside you are greeted by a large white vestibule with wooden floors. This is dominated by a massive version of Rodin's The Thinker and two Rivera murals. 




The wooden floors then lead you up onto a white spiral, which winds it's way up 6 floors. It was the most fluid thing in an otherwise rather strange museum experience. There are no windows other than a sky light on the top floor. 



I started at the vestibule  and slowly walked upwards, saving the best for last as it would turn out.

I read some professional reviews of the place after I had been, and I would have to agree with them . The two main criticisms are 1) the layout: It isn't curated well at all, and it is hard to know where to go next on pretty much every floor. I remember glimpsing a painting of a horse through a gap, thinking 'oh I must go back to that, it looks like a Stubbs', and then not being able to find it again!

2) the collection: there are some super pieces in here, but mainly it is lesser works by fabulous artists. There were approximately 12- 15 Renoirs and I didn't recognise one of them (although I hasten to add that I am not an art expert by any stretch of the imagination!)






 Some floors I skimmed over as they didn't massively interest me: the coins and artefacts floor, the religious paintings and crucifixes, and the Mexican floor (mainly with artefacts that are much better at the Museum of Anthropology). 

However the top floor is worth the visit alone! You are rewarded for shlepping all the way up that spiral with literally a plethora of Rodin and Dali statues. I spent almost an hour up here and 1.5 hours on the other 5 floors! There were some really great statues, particularly from Dali of whom I am a big fan. I got a bit carried away with the old camera...







I have been to much better art galleries around the world, but I am glad I visited and hey it was free!

I had worked up quite an appetite after all this art appreciation and went downstairs where they have a Samborns cafe. Samborns is a department store here, and their cafes are pretty darn good. The cafe in the museum was white, with bright orange and white chairs. It looked like the space station waiting room in 2001: A Space Odyssey.

I bravely ordered my first enchiladas of the trip. And they were delish!!! Chicken in corn tortillas with a green sauce and melted cheese. Washed down with a Coca Cola Light, I was very proud of myself for ordering and paying in Spanish.


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